Gari Pickled Ginger: Thinking Pink for Hanami
The cherry blossoms have reached their finale in Tokyo. Around my table, though, spring lingers a little longer. It's the time of year I look forward to making gari.
Gari is the pale pink ginger pickle most people know as the palate cleanser served with sushi and sashimi. It is made from shin-shōga, or "new" ginger, which is milder and less fibrous than mature ginger. Within a few hours of being placed in vinegar, the slices begin to blush naturally as the acidity draws out their delicate pink pigments.
The season for shin-shōga begins just as the blossoms are fading. Although it remains available well into summer, I always look forward to those first arrivals. They feel less like the end of cherry blossom season than its continuation in another form.
I enjoy making gari as much as eating it. There is something quietly satisfying about watching a fresh root transform into something bright, crisp, and alive. I slice mine about two millimeters thick with a mandolin rather than shaving it paper-thin with a peeler. The result is less a garnish than a vegetable in its own right, one I happily serve alongside almost any spring or summer meal.
By the time the last blossoms have fallen, there is already another shade of pink waiting on the table.
Gari
Makes about 1½ cups
Ingredients
200 g fresh shin-shoga (young ginger), preferably thick, knobby pieces
500 ml water
1 tsp salt (for blanching)
For salting
1 tsp fine sea salt
For pickling liquid
120 ml rice vinegar
60 g granulated or caster sugar
½ tsp fine sea salt
Prepare the ginger
Soak the ginger in cold water for 10–20 minutes to loosen any dirt. Rinse well. Do not peel. Instead, use a spoon (or the back of a knife) to scrape away any dark spots and trim the ends. The faintly pink skin contributes to the final color.
Slice
Slice into even 2 mm pieces using a mandolin. If the ginger is thick and knobby, slice against the grain into rounds. If the roots are thinner, slice with the grain into longer slabs. The slices may seem large at first, but they will reduce slightly during blanching and pickling. Longer pieces can always be cut in half later if desired.
Blanch
Bring the water with 1 tsp salt to a boil in a small pot. Add the ginger and blanch for 2-3 minutes, depending on how much texture and sharpness you want to retain. I usually do 2 ½ minutes. Drain well in a colander. Do not rinse, as this can introduce unwanted bacteria.
Salt and rest
While still warm, toss the ginger with 1 tsp fine sea salt. Spread the slices out in the colander to cool slightly, then let sit for 15 minutes. This step draws out excess moisture and refines the flavor.
Make the pickling liquid
In a small saucepan, combine the rice vinegar, sugar, and salt. Warm over medium heat until the sugar and salt dissolve and boil gently for 1-2 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly; it should be warm, not hot.
Squeeze and pickle
Once the ginger is cool enough to handle, gently but firmly squeeze out excess liquid in small batches and add to the warm pickling liquid. Ttoss to coat thoroughly, making sure all slices are in contact with the liquid.
Transfer to a clean, sterilized glass jar and pour the liquid over the top, ensuring the ginger is fully submerged. I find that a 350 ml sized container is a good size.
Let cool down, then put in the refrigerator. It will be ready in several hours, but is best after one night for a more integrated flavor. The ginger will gradually take on its natural pale pink hue.
Storage
Store refrigerated. It will keep for several weeks and up to about 2 months, becoming milder in flavor over time.