Gari Pickled Ginger: Thinking Pink for Hanami
The cherry blossoms have reached their finale in Tokyo, but that means it’s time to add something pink to the table instead by making gari (ガリ). Gari is the pale pink ginger pickle most people know as the palate cleanser served with sashimi and sushi, part of the broader world of Japanese pickles, or tsukemono. It’s made with “new” ginger, called shin-shoga (新生姜) in Japanese. Less fibrous and milder than mature ginger, it begins to take on a natural rosy hue after a few hours in vinegar as the acidity draws out its pigments.
Its main season runs from May into August, but it often appears in stores by mid-April, early enough to have a bowl ready for the very last of the cherry blossom picnics. With its long season and crisp, peppery flavor, it works just as well for hanami in the weeks that follow. As the weather turns warmer, it becomes even more useful, something cool and bright to serve alongside summer meals or to have on hand as a refreshing snack.
I also like making it for the easy magic of the process, the way a simple preparation transforms a fresh root into something bright, balanced, and alive. The recipe I use is fairly standard. The main difference is in how I slice the ginger: into thicker, 2 mm pieces using a mandolin, rather than the wispy slices made with a peeler that are more typical when served as a garnish. The result is something more substantial, a distinctly pink vegetable side dish.
Fresh new ginger, mild, tender, and tinged with pink at the edges, which will deepen and infuse the slices as they pickle.
Gari
Makes about 1½ cups
Ingredients
200 g fresh shin-shoga (young ginger), preferably thick, knobby pieces
500 ml water
1 tsp salt (for blanching)
For salting
1 tsp fine sea salt
For pickling liquid
120 ml rice vinegar
60 g granulated or caster sugar
½ tsp fine sea salt
Prepare the ginger
Soak the ginger in cold water for 10–20 minutes to loosen any dirt. Rinse well. Do not peel. Instead, use a spoon (or the back of a knife) to scrape away any dark spots and trim the ends. The faintly pink skin contributes to the final color.
Slice
Slice with the grain into even 2 mm pieces using a mandolin. The slices may seem large at first but will reduce slightly during blanching and pickling. They can be cut smaller later if desired.
Blanch
Bring the water with 1 tsp salt to a boil in a small pot. Add the ginger and blanch for 2-3 minutes, depending on how much texture and sharpness you want to retain. I usually do 2 minutes. Drain well in a colander. Do not rinse, as this can introduce unwanted bacteria.
Salt and rest
While still warm, toss the ginger with 1 tsp fine sea salt. Spread the slices out in the colander to cool slightly, then let sit for 15 minutes. This step draws out excess moisture and refines the flavor.
Make the pickling liquid
In a small saucepan, combine the rice vinegar, sugar, and salt. Warm over medium heat until the sugar and salt dissolve and boil gently for 1-2 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly; it should be warm, not hot.
Squeeze and pickle
Once the ginger is cool enough to handle, gently but firmly squeeze out excess liquid in small batches and add to the warm pickling liquid. Ttoss to coat thoroughly, making sure all slices are in contact with the liquid.
Transfer to a clean, sterilized glass jar and pour the liquid over the top, ensuring the ginger is fully submerged. I find that a 350 ml sized container is a good size.
Let cool down, then put in the refrigerator. It will be ready in several hours, but is best after one night for a more integrated flavor. The ginger will gradually take on its natural pale pink hue.
Storage
Store refrigerated. It will keep for several weeks and up to about 2 months, becoming milder in flavor over time.
Blushing naturally within hours, gari made from new ginger delights with a fresh, peppery bite.