Yubeishi at Takyo Abeke: A Winter Recipe from the Mountains
If you visit Takyo Abeke, the historic home and inn of Tomi and Daikichi Matsuba in the village of Omori, in December, you’ll notice it at once: the captivating fragrance of yuzu drifting from the daidokoro, the large open kitchen and gathering space at the heart of the house. It is the season for making yubeishi, a preserved delicacy made from whole yuzu.
The recipe used here is among the most traditional still in practice, closely aligned with one recorded in the Nihon Saijiki (Japanese Almanac), published in 1688 by Kaibara Ekken (1630–1714), a samurai-scholar who devoted himself to documenting the ways everyday things in Japan were made. Each winter, the staff work together to hollow out 300-400 yuzu, depending on the year’s harvest, carefully removing the pulp and seeds and filling the rinds with a miso-based paste. The yuzu are then steamed, wrapped in washi paper, and strung beneath the eaves of the courtyard, where they hang through the winter months, slowly fermenting and aging in the cold air.
At Takyo Abeke, the miso of choice is Hatcho miso, a variety made solely from soy beans and produced for more than 700 years. Fermented and aged for two to three years, it is Japan’s darkest and most concentrated miso, valued for both its depth of flavor and keeping quality. To this is added another ancient staple: Domyoji rice flour, a coarse rice product made from steamed, dried, and roughly ground glutinous rice. Like Hatcho miso, it is prized for its nourishment, texture, and preservability. Nuts and seeds are also mixed in, along with slow-dissolving zarame coarse-grained sugar, which lends balance and further aids in preservation.
Over the centuries, yubeishi has been food for travelers: carried by samurai, farmers, and laborers for its portability and shelf life. Today it is a delicacy. Though December is its season of making, visitors need not worry if they arrive at another time of year. Yubeishi is a signature dish at Takyo Abeke, served each evening in thin slices, as an appetizer, topped with small cubes of cream cheese and paired with sake or tea. It offers a sophisticated opening to the meal and an invitation to settle into the inn’s unhurried, attentive way of life.
Each night, sliced yubeishi topped with tiny cream cheese cubes appears as an appetizer, setting the rhythm for the meal and the stay.
Takyo Abeke’s Yubeishi Recipe
Ingredients
Yuzu, 20
Hatchō miso*, 400 g
Zarame sugar, 300 g
Water, 200 ml
Dōmyōji glutinous rice flour, 130 g
White sesame seeds, 3 Tbsp
Walnuts, 20 pieces, chopped
For assembly
Kitchen twine
Washi paper
Prepare the yuzu
Soak the yuzu overnight in water (ideally the water leftover from rinsing Japanese rice). The next day, rinse thoroughly, drain, and dry well.
Cut off about one-fifth of the top of each yuzu. Using a small knife or spoon, carefully remove all pith, pulp, and seeds, keeping the rind intact to form a container. Scrape the pith from the tops and reserve these pieces to use as lids.
Make the filling
Combine the Hatcho miso, zarame sugar, and water in a pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring constantly.
Remove from heat and stir in the Domyoji glutinous rice flour, sesame seeds, and walnuts until well combined.
Fill and steam
Fill each yuzu about two-thirds full with the mixture. Cover with the reserved yuzu lids and secure with kitchen twine tied in a cross.
Place in a steamer basket over boiling water and steam, covered, until the rind is tender, about 1 hour.
Dry and age
Allow to cool slightly, then place on a wire rack and dry overnight.
Wrap each yuzu individually in washi paper and tie with string, leaving a long tail for hanging. Hang in a well-ventilated, rain-protected area and air-dry for 2–3 months, until slightly firm.
To Serve
Remove the washi paper and slice thinly.
Storage
Keeps at room temperature for up to 2 weeks
Can be frozen for up to 6 months
For freezing, store in a resealable bag
Notes*
Hatcho miso can be replaced with another dark, rich miso.